Recipe: Fresh Pho Noodle Rolls (2024)

Fresh Pho Noodle Rolls

Makes about 16 rolls

Freshly made rice noodle rolls are at the heart of this Hanoi specialty adapted from Andrea Nguyen’s “The Pho Cookbook.” Perfecting these thin rice “crepes” takes some practice and a close eye, so consider making a double batch of the batter to practice on until you get the hang of it. Nguyen recommends making the noodles in a cheap, lightweight nonstick skillet that will heat up and cool down quickly. You can find the rice flour, along with the wheat and tapioca starches, at Asian markets. You’ll need to start this recipe more than 8 hours before serving.

Batter

¾ teaspoon fine sea salt

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon wheat starch

¼ cup tapioca starch

Scant 1½ cups regular rice flour, any Thai brand such as Erewan

21/3 cups hot water (about 120 degrees)

¼ cup canola oil, plus more as needed

Filling

10 ounces well-trimmed flank steak

1 teaspoon cornstarch

¼ teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon pepper

1½ teaspoons fish sauce

1½ teaspoons soy sauce

1½ tablespoons canola oil

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/3 cup thinly sliced shallot

2 cups butter lettuce or other soft-leaf lettuce, spines removed and cut into narrow ribbons

½ cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves

½ cup coarsely chopped mint leaves

Sauce

2½ tablespoons sugar

½ cup warm water

¼ cup fresh lime juice

2 teaspoons rice vinegar

3 to 4 tablespoons fish sauce

1 to 2 Thai or Serrano chiles, thinly sliced

1 large clove garlic, minced

To make the batter: Put the salt, wheat starch, tapioca starch, rice flour, hot water and oil in a blender. Whirl on high speed for about 30 seconds until you have a silky batter that resembles whole milk. Transfer to large bowl and chill, uncovered, for 8 hours or overnight. Bring the batter to room temperature and whisk before using.

To make the filling: About 1 hour before making the rice sheets, very thinly slice the beef across the grain into 3-inch strips. Transfer to a medium bowl and mix with the cornstarch, sugar, pepper, fish sauce and soy sauce. Heat a wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Swirl in the oil, then add the garlic and shallot. When aromatic, about 30 seconds, push to the side.

Raise the heat to high. Add the beef, spreading it out into a single layer. Let cook, undisturbed, for about 1 minute, until the edges start to brown. Flip and stir for 1 to 2 minutes longer to finish cooking. Transfer to a plate and let cool.

Meanwhile, combine the lettuce, cilantro and mint in a medium bowl and set near the beef.

To make the sauce: In a small bowl, dissolve the sugar in the water. Add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning, if desired.

To finish: Near the stove, position an inverted baking sheet on top of a dish towel to prevent slipping at the counter’s edge. Heat a lightweight 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Smear on a tiny bit of oil with a paper towel. When the pan is hot to the touch, ladle in about 2 to 3 tablespoons of the batter. The batter should barely sizzle on contact. Swirl and shake the skillet to coat the bottom; it’s OK if you don’t evenly coat. (See Note.)

Cover and cook for 60 seconds, or until translucent, bubbly and poufed up. Slide the skillet to a cool burner.

After the rice sheet stops quivering and bubbling, about 30 seconds, run a silicone spatula around the rim. Turn the skillet over and slam it onto the baking sheet. Wait 1 to 2 seconds before checking if the rice sheet has fallen out. When the rice sheet falls out and is wrinkled, use your fingers to quickly straighten it out; tiny wrinkles can be hidden in the roll. If it’s a hopeless ball, discard and make another one. (There’s plenty of batter.)

Once the rice sheet has cooled to lukewarm, about 45 seconds, arrange about 3 tablespoons of the lettuce mixture below the mid-line, then add some beef. Roll it up and place on a platter. Repeat the above instructions with the remaining batter and filling. Keep rolls covered to prevent drying out.

Serve the rolls whole or cut in half along with the dipping sauce.

Note: Craters on the surface of the rice noodles means that the skillet has overheated. Cracks in the rice sheets may reflect too much batter was used or the batter is too thick (thin out by adding water by the teaspoon). If the rice sheet doesn’t fall out after 3 to 5 seconds, reheat the skillet on the burner for 20 seconds, or until the sheet re-poufs. Cool briefly, then try inverting again.